1950s Wittnauer Automatic Teardrop Lugs

In the grand tapestry of 20th-century watchmaking, there are the household names and then there are the brands that the true aficionados know and cherish. Wittnauer is, without question, one of the latter. While they may have flown under the mainstream radar, they were a formidable American house known for leveraging top-tier Swiss movements, a practice that reached its zenith after their acquisition by the legendary firm Longines in 1950. This relationship gave birth to some of the most handsome and reliable timepieces of the era, offering a compelling value proposition that still holds true today.

The 1950s were a golden age for wristwatch design, a time of sartorial elegance where a watch was an essential piece of a gentleman’s attire. It’s in this context that we find the stunning design language of teardrop lugs. This wasn’t just a functional component; it was a sculptural flourish, a subtle but significant detail that transformed a simple round case into a work of art on the wrist. It’s a design that speaks of post-war optimism and a return to sophisticated aesthetics, a detail that, to us, is quintessentially 1950s.

This particular Wittnauer is a fantastic example of why we adore this period. It dates to that pivotal decade and houses the robust and reliable Caliber 11ARK automatic movement, a true workhorse. The 34mm stainless steel case is a masterclass in mid-century proportions, wearing larger than its dimensions suggest thanks to those expressive teardrop lugs, or brancards. The original dial is in stunning condition, featuring a classic layout of applied indices and dauphine hands that dance in the light. Its creamy white surface has aged honestly, developing a gentle character that no modern watch can replicate.